As they left Antakya, Turkey's earthquake-shattered home of ancient civilisations, its anguished residents scribbled farewell messages on the ruins: "We'll come back" and "Don't lose hope." Now, its residents fear the city they eventually return to will lack the vibrance and tradition of cultural acceptance that distinguished Antakya from the rest of Turkey until disaster struck on February 6, claiming more than 50,000 lives IMAGES AND SOUNDBITES