It almost succumbed to the rise of Teflon saucepans at the end of the 20th century, but the stainless steel frying pan is taking its revenge with the controversy surrounding the "'forever chemicals" (PFAS) present in non-stick coatings. Cristel, France's number one manufacturer of stainless steel kitchen equipment has seen "demand explode" since the National Assembly passed a law in April restricting the use of PFASs because of health and environmental risks, says its deputy CEO Damien Dodane. IMAGES AND SOUNDBITES